After a nice 5k jog along copacabana, I made my way to Sugar Loaf...Amazing.
http://picasaweb.google.com/christopher.kitterman/RIODEJANEIRODAYS12
Sunday, June 29, 2008
RIO DE JANEIRO: DAY 1
R.G.:
I arrived in Rio in the evening and proceeded to my hotel located in the Copacabana section of the city. I had thought that the hotel was one block off of the beach, but was surprised to find out that not only was I 4 blocks (yikes) from the beach, my 2nd floor room faced AWAY from the beach! I have a great view of the metro stop conveniently located across the street from the hotel...time for a capirinha.
Although I have been told not to walk around Rio by yourself after dark, I throw this aside and make my way to the Av Atlantico promenade. Although it is dark, I can tell this will be an amazing view in the morning...I find myself a nice hotel to crash. A rooftop bar awaits.
I have learned from previous experiences not to tell the hotel bar (at least in a foreign country) that you are not staying in their hotel...service drops significantly. So, on the elevator ride to the top, I learned there are 25 floors here and when asked which room I was staying in I responded something to the likes of '20....' and mumble the rest...then just say you'll pay cash and they wisk you away to the outdoor table with the view. Much better than my 2nd floor metro stop view...haha.
I arrived in Rio in the evening and proceeded to my hotel located in the Copacabana section of the city. I had thought that the hotel was one block off of the beach, but was surprised to find out that not only was I 4 blocks (yikes) from the beach, my 2nd floor room faced AWAY from the beach! I have a great view of the metro stop conveniently located across the street from the hotel...time for a capirinha.
Although I have been told not to walk around Rio by yourself after dark, I throw this aside and make my way to the Av Atlantico promenade. Although it is dark, I can tell this will be an amazing view in the morning...I find myself a nice hotel to crash. A rooftop bar awaits.
I have learned from previous experiences not to tell the hotel bar (at least in a foreign country) that you are not staying in their hotel...service drops significantly. So, on the elevator ride to the top, I learned there are 25 floors here and when asked which room I was staying in I responded something to the likes of '20....' and mumble the rest...then just say you'll pay cash and they wisk you away to the outdoor table with the view. Much better than my 2nd floor metro stop view...haha.
Thursday, June 26, 2008
SAO PAULO A.M.; TRAVEL TO RIO: DAY 7
Wednesday:
Today is a travel day to Rio de Janeiro, but before I leave, I wanted to see a Niemeyer complex for the Latin Americans.
Set in a large concrete plaza and split by a major street are a series of white pavilions in which different programs dedicated to the Latin Americans are housed. So, as you can guess, there is a library, a gallery, a theater, and a museum among others.
Similar his OSC, there is a similar vocabulary here for some buildings. Each building is articulated as an object piece set onto a vast plaza; water is used at times to reinforce this design move.
Of the buildings I visited, the theater seems the most exciting in terms of the interior spaces. Although I was unable to visit the theater itself as a closed rehearsal was taking place, the lobby is striking because of its simplicity...the extruded hyperbolic vault has three access points to the interior of the theater. Two are circular stairs and the third is a processional ramp. The back wall where the access points are located is cladded in mirrors, so the hyperbola is completed. At show times, this must be a great place to people watch as each ascends to the theater seats beyond. Maybe next time...
PICS OF DAYS 5,6,7
http://picasaweb.google.com/christopher.kitterman/SaoPauloDays45Y6
Today is a travel day to Rio de Janeiro, but before I leave, I wanted to see a Niemeyer complex for the Latin Americans.
Set in a large concrete plaza and split by a major street are a series of white pavilions in which different programs dedicated to the Latin Americans are housed. So, as you can guess, there is a library, a gallery, a theater, and a museum among others.
Similar his OSC, there is a similar vocabulary here for some buildings. Each building is articulated as an object piece set onto a vast plaza; water is used at times to reinforce this design move.
Of the buildings I visited, the theater seems the most exciting in terms of the interior spaces. Although I was unable to visit the theater itself as a closed rehearsal was taking place, the lobby is striking because of its simplicity...the extruded hyperbolic vault has three access points to the interior of the theater. Two are circular stairs and the third is a processional ramp. The back wall where the access points are located is cladded in mirrors, so the hyperbola is completed. At show times, this must be a great place to people watch as each ascends to the theater seats beyond. Maybe next time...
PICS OF DAYS 5,6,7
http://picasaweb.google.com/christopher.kitterman/SaoPauloDays45Y6
SAO PAULO: DAY 6
Tuesday:
After learning the subway metro system yesterday, I went a little further out and took a 4th train to see another Lina Bo Bardi building / complex...SESC Pompeiia.
This complex houses a library, gallery, theater, restaurant-cafe, and an amazing complex for sports. The cultural program are housed in what appear to be typical warehouses--sawtooth skylights, long bays-- with a central drive between another row of warehouses. Inserted into these larger spaces are little set pieces by Bo Bardi for the library, the theater, the galleries, and such.
Beyond is sports complex--two towers, one an existing storage facility and the other is new by Bo Bardi. In the storage side are large, open air gymnasiums, basket ball courts, and a swimming pool on the street level, while the new addition houses changing rooms, and smaller spaces dedicated to lifting weights, yoga, etc. She connects the two buildings with open air bridges and what is produced is an exciting space of observation of persons and the city beyond.
After learning the subway metro system yesterday, I went a little further out and took a 4th train to see another Lina Bo Bardi building / complex...SESC Pompeiia.
This complex houses a library, gallery, theater, restaurant-cafe, and an amazing complex for sports. The cultural program are housed in what appear to be typical warehouses--sawtooth skylights, long bays-- with a central drive between another row of warehouses. Inserted into these larger spaces are little set pieces by Bo Bardi for the library, the theater, the galleries, and such.
Beyond is sports complex--two towers, one an existing storage facility and the other is new by Bo Bardi. In the storage side are large, open air gymnasiums, basket ball courts, and a swimming pool on the street level, while the new addition houses changing rooms, and smaller spaces dedicated to lifting weights, yoga, etc. She connects the two buildings with open air bridges and what is produced is an exciting space of observation of persons and the city beyond.
SAO PAULO: DAY 5
Monday:
Today I ventured to centro or downtown Sao Paulo. Av. Paulista is located on a ridge in the city, so it is used as a navigation point. The places I have visted so far have been located on the opposite side of this ridge from centro...
Centro is dense and the streets are more like the financial district in Manhattan with the street life of Canal Street. Hence, lots of selling on the streets--pirated movies, thongs and bras, lighters, bongs, and every once in a while an interesting find such as a model of a spider.
Here in centro are some important artifacts for the city. Two of the main cathedrals are located here in addition to the first school and church at the 'zero' point--i.e. centro-- of the city. The age of the buildings here predate the city on Av. Paulista and the others side of the ridge. To see it all, there is an art deco tower that has an observation tower at its top 40+ stories above the city. Although there is no fee to reach the top, I had to sign a piece of paper and have my photo taken for security...I was later told there had been an increase of suicides, so the waiver I just signed took the responsibility off from the building and in my hands. Once I reached the top, I understood the need for the waiver...the parapet is waist high and there is nothing else to keep you from stepping over the edge! Although the weather has been overcast, the view was still worth while.
Afterwards, I was able to find the city market in what I believe is located in a refurbished train depot...The bays and the openings seem to recall train platforms, but I have yet to confirm this...the building might just as well be built for the purpose of selling as well...
In any case, it is a huge collection of fruits, meats, seafood, and spices with cafes located on a mezzanine level to observe the spectacle below.
Today I ventured to centro or downtown Sao Paulo. Av. Paulista is located on a ridge in the city, so it is used as a navigation point. The places I have visted so far have been located on the opposite side of this ridge from centro...
Centro is dense and the streets are more like the financial district in Manhattan with the street life of Canal Street. Hence, lots of selling on the streets--pirated movies, thongs and bras, lighters, bongs, and every once in a while an interesting find such as a model of a spider.
Here in centro are some important artifacts for the city. Two of the main cathedrals are located here in addition to the first school and church at the 'zero' point--i.e. centro-- of the city. The age of the buildings here predate the city on Av. Paulista and the others side of the ridge. To see it all, there is an art deco tower that has an observation tower at its top 40+ stories above the city. Although there is no fee to reach the top, I had to sign a piece of paper and have my photo taken for security...I was later told there had been an increase of suicides, so the waiver I just signed took the responsibility off from the building and in my hands. Once I reached the top, I understood the need for the waiver...the parapet is waist high and there is nothing else to keep you from stepping over the edge! Although the weather has been overcast, the view was still worth while.
Afterwards, I was able to find the city market in what I believe is located in a refurbished train depot...The bays and the openings seem to recall train platforms, but I have yet to confirm this...the building might just as well be built for the purpose of selling as well...
In any case, it is a huge collection of fruits, meats, seafood, and spices with cafes located on a mezzanine level to observe the spectacle below.
Monday, June 23, 2008
DAY 4: SAO PAULO
Sunday:
It was my goal this morning when I got up to visit the 'forma' store by Paulo Mendes da Rocha--same architect as the MuBE. It is located somewhat close to the MuBE, but I decided to try my luck with a taxi since I got a late start. What is the equivalent of 25$ later, I arrived at the forma only to find out it was closed! So, I had the taxi keep going to cross on of the major rivers of Sao Paulo to drop me off at the Sao Paulo Jockey Club. Ok, I don't bet on horses, but I have read that this facility is supposed to be a nice Art Deco design and is supposed to have a spectacular view of the city. 30$ for what was a 15 minute cab ride...that was my splurge for the trip!
The stadium was designed by Elisaro Bahiano and Victor Brecheret--the sequence from the porte corchet to the viewing platform is very dramatic to say the least. Once there, the track becomes the foreground for a wall of buildings beyond...nice drinks, too. :-)
Out of money for the day, I begin my trek back across the river to the jardins area...moving across 8 lanes of fast moving traffic with my 'hump' was basically committing suicide, but I was able to survive the frogger game!
It was a 50 min walk to the MuBE, which then was another 1 1/2 hours to the hotel...uphill.
I was able to find a Sao Paulo city musuem with artifacts from its colonial period and a revisit to the MuBE to help break up the walk. The former had a presentation of a Japanese artist's photographs of living in Sao Paulo (just ok) and the MuBE had a antiques fair and a presentation of Italian residential furnishings...mostly Poliform. Thank you JSA...
Back in time for one more free concert--this was a string quartet playing music by modern Brazilian composers and the second act was an A Capella group again from the Amazon section of Brazil. The first act was, again, amazing. The second act was was mostly older women who were singing well beyond their ages of 80+.
It was my goal this morning when I got up to visit the 'forma' store by Paulo Mendes da Rocha--same architect as the MuBE. It is located somewhat close to the MuBE, but I decided to try my luck with a taxi since I got a late start. What is the equivalent of 25$ later, I arrived at the forma only to find out it was closed! So, I had the taxi keep going to cross on of the major rivers of Sao Paulo to drop me off at the Sao Paulo Jockey Club. Ok, I don't bet on horses, but I have read that this facility is supposed to be a nice Art Deco design and is supposed to have a spectacular view of the city. 30$ for what was a 15 minute cab ride...that was my splurge for the trip!
The stadium was designed by Elisaro Bahiano and Victor Brecheret--the sequence from the porte corchet to the viewing platform is very dramatic to say the least. Once there, the track becomes the foreground for a wall of buildings beyond...nice drinks, too. :-)
Out of money for the day, I begin my trek back across the river to the jardins area...moving across 8 lanes of fast moving traffic with my 'hump' was basically committing suicide, but I was able to survive the frogger game!
It was a 50 min walk to the MuBE, which then was another 1 1/2 hours to the hotel...uphill.
I was able to find a Sao Paulo city musuem with artifacts from its colonial period and a revisit to the MuBE to help break up the walk. The former had a presentation of a Japanese artist's photographs of living in Sao Paulo (just ok) and the MuBE had a antiques fair and a presentation of Italian residential furnishings...mostly Poliform. Thank you JSA...
Back in time for one more free concert--this was a string quartet playing music by modern Brazilian composers and the second act was an A Capella group again from the Amazon section of Brazil. The first act was, again, amazing. The second act was was mostly older women who were singing well beyond their ages of 80+.
DAY 3: SAO PAULO
Saturday: I walked from the hotel to Paulo Mendes da Rocha's Museu Brasilero de Escultura (MuBE). The walk from Av. Paulista to this musuem traverses along the ridge and then downhill to the valley passing many affluent neighborhoods in the city. It was a nice 1 1/2hr warm-up walk!
However, when I got to the museum, it appeared closed...which only after walking around the entire complex did I find a small gate open to which the attendant allowed me to come in and visit. Hence, I had the entire place to myself! Very nice!
The museum is a substantial concrete structure that is broken into smaller galleries and then stacked and interlocked together with a very interesting section. Part of the museum appears carved into the site, but the major exterior plaza (like MASP) is a hardscape above these galleries. Since the galleries have hardscape above, natural light is brought into the spaces through a series of slots, sometimes for circulation and others for water/planting features..the pictures might help to understand what I mean...see the link below.
After some time there, I began the trek up the hill to the hotel...this time, not as easy with the 20lbs. camera grafted to my back as a hump...but oh well.
I was able to locate a theater near the hotel that gives free concerts (!!) so I was able to get a ticket to hear two concerts. Brazil hosted a competition to find the most talented musicians in the country. After 2000 submittals, the board identified the top 50 and they are dispersed across Brazil to perform and rotate between major ports of call. So, I heard two groups tonight. One, was an absolutely spectacular saxophone quartet w/ percussion that was a mix of jazz and 'modern' music...not sure how to describe, but it was exceptionally entertaining. The second group was from north Brazil comprised of 2 flautists and 3 percussionists. I was told this was more like the sounds from the Amazon. Again, I was super impressed but the real highlight was the fact that one of the fife players was a 92 year old woman! She was electricfying and the entire audience was blown away. I can only wish for this this much energy when I am that age...she was and is amazing.
http://picasaweb.google.com/christopher.kitterman/SAOPAULODAY3
However, when I got to the museum, it appeared closed...which only after walking around the entire complex did I find a small gate open to which the attendant allowed me to come in and visit. Hence, I had the entire place to myself! Very nice!
The museum is a substantial concrete structure that is broken into smaller galleries and then stacked and interlocked together with a very interesting section. Part of the museum appears carved into the site, but the major exterior plaza (like MASP) is a hardscape above these galleries. Since the galleries have hardscape above, natural light is brought into the spaces through a series of slots, sometimes for circulation and others for water/planting features..the pictures might help to understand what I mean...see the link below.
After some time there, I began the trek up the hill to the hotel...this time, not as easy with the 20lbs. camera grafted to my back as a hump...but oh well.
I was able to locate a theater near the hotel that gives free concerts (!!) so I was able to get a ticket to hear two concerts. Brazil hosted a competition to find the most talented musicians in the country. After 2000 submittals, the board identified the top 50 and they are dispersed across Brazil to perform and rotate between major ports of call. So, I heard two groups tonight. One, was an absolutely spectacular saxophone quartet w/ percussion that was a mix of jazz and 'modern' music...not sure how to describe, but it was exceptionally entertaining. The second group was from north Brazil comprised of 2 flautists and 3 percussionists. I was told this was more like the sounds from the Amazon. Again, I was super impressed but the real highlight was the fact that one of the fife players was a 92 year old woman! She was electricfying and the entire audience was blown away. I can only wish for this this much energy when I am that age...she was and is amazing.
http://picasaweb.google.com/christopher.kitterman/SAOPAULODAY3
Sunday, June 22, 2008
DAY 2: SAO PAULO
Saturday: after the capirinha buzz, I decided to visit the Parque Ibirapuera--home to the MAM (Museu de Arte Moderne), MAC (Museu de Arte Contemporanea), OCA, and others with landscape by Burle Marx.
The park itself is pretty extensive with multiple resevoirs and open fields for play with the cultural institutions creating an enclave connected by a sinuous concrete awning.
The MAM is having an exhibition about the cultural relations between Brazil and Japan; hence the art was dedicated to these exchanges of design, art, and living.
Unfortunately the OCA was closed preparing for a new exhibition. This building by Neimeyer is a concrete dome with circular apetures punctured evenly around the base. From the photos I have seen of the interior, there are these amazing ramps that define the exhibition space on the interior...I will try to revisit before I leave Sao Paulo...
While in walking the park, I found this rather amazing tree that I have no earthly idea what the species is, but it has these limbs that remind me of a willow tree, but are much more dense in quantity especially around the trunk.
link to photos, day 2: http://picasaweb.google.com/christopher.kitterman/SAOPAULODAY2
The park itself is pretty extensive with multiple resevoirs and open fields for play with the cultural institutions creating an enclave connected by a sinuous concrete awning.
The MAM is having an exhibition about the cultural relations between Brazil and Japan; hence the art was dedicated to these exchanges of design, art, and living.
Unfortunately the OCA was closed preparing for a new exhibition. This building by Neimeyer is a concrete dome with circular apetures punctured evenly around the base. From the photos I have seen of the interior, there are these amazing ramps that define the exhibition space on the interior...I will try to revisit before I leave Sao Paulo...
While in walking the park, I found this rather amazing tree that I have no earthly idea what the species is, but it has these limbs that remind me of a willow tree, but are much more dense in quantity especially around the trunk.
link to photos, day 2: http://picasaweb.google.com/christopher.kitterman/SAOPAULODAY2
Friday, June 20, 2008
DAY 1: SAO PAULO
So, I arrived without problems yesterday morning at GRU. Easy bus transfer to my hotel in the Jardins district of the city-2 blocks from Av. Paulista which seems to be a major thoroughfare--banking, culture, shopping, etc--for Sao Paulo. After settling into my room, I walked the neighborhood and visited two sites: MASP by Lina Bo Bardi and the Parque Trianon.
The MASP is the Museum of Art and is a concrete structure with two distinct art exhibition galleries: one set of galleries is in the bar above the entry plaza with an open floor plan and the other set of galleries are below the entry plaza. Although the bar building is glazed on the long sides, natural light is not utilized as a lighting source for the upper galleries (or at least at the exhibition I attended). The below plaza galleries take light from one end that looks back towards the Bixiga neighborhood and is a dramatic view. I wasn´t supposed to shoot any interior pics, but I was able to find some ´blind spots´in the security...
The Parque Trianaon is directly across Av. Paulista from the MASP and is a super dense forest of palm trees and other plants here inBrazil. Unlike Central Park, there are no clearings in the park except for a few small playgrounds, a vehicular cross street, and the stone pathways that are carved out of the foliage. Very cool and a nice contrast to the open plaza under the MASP.
After returning to the hotel, I was able to find a good bar where I could have my first Brazilian caipirinha--which those of you I have been fortunate to go to La Palette with in the W Village know they are spectacular! Well, I was not disappointed and the cachaça was litterally mind numbing. Fortunately it was a short stumble back to home base.
If I can ever finish this post, I am off for the Parque do Ibirapuera where Oscar Neimeyer has some projects and should be a nice walk from where I am now. I´ll add pics next time, until then....
TRY THIS LINK FOR PHOTOS http://picasaweb.google.com/christopher.kitterman/SAOPAULODAY1
let me know if this works...if so, I will use this to post pics as it is easier to manage.
TRY THIS LINK FOR PHOTOS http://picasaweb.google.com/christopher.kitterman/SAOPAULODAY1
let me know if this works...if so, I will use this to post pics as it is easier to manage.
Monday, June 16, 2008
Inaugural Post
Although I don't consider myself a 'blogger' by any means, I wanted to set this up before I left New York this Wednesday...first stop, Sao Paulo, Brazil! I just received my Brazilian visa today, so I am good to go...
I will use this site to share stories and pics of the trip. Please share any comments and you know how to get in touch with me.
But in the meantime, I have a few friends to visit before I leave...
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