Although during my stay was the celebration of the Argentine Independence, you never would have known...It is not celebrated with such fanfair as it is here in the states.
I have spent most of my time in the city's Palermo neighborhood. Here, there are located many of the city's museums and the country's foreign embassies. There are three sites in particular that I have enjoyed visiting:
1. MALBA-Museum of Latin Art Buenos Aires
This is one of a few privately maintained museums in Buenos Aires. With that, you pay a slightly higher entrance fee, but the collection and the building warrant the price. While visiting, I viewed a show of Mexican artists whose work was situated around the period of 1968, so the work was highly charged with political and cultural themes of the time...i.e. war, gender issues, media...all obviously still relevant today as well.
One piece in particular was a mobile version of Bruce Newman's Broken Obelisk. The sculpture now is an open steel frame (instead of a corten steel structure) with netting/cloth to infill the frame. The entire piece is able to be dismantled and reassembled quickly. So part of the exhibit was to show this new art in different settings...i.e. art to the masses.
2. Evita Museum
Although some might think this to be a cliche in Buenos Aires, the museum did accomplish showing her contributions to the country beyond her high fashion tastes. I was not aware that she brought the women of Argentina the right to vote in the mid twentieth century, nor did I know that she and Peron accomplished so much to aid the needs of children with disabilities by building schools and offering special programs. Some of these schools are still in operation today. Although I am not completely up to date on all of the issues why she was not welcomed by many people in the country, I can appreciate that a museum dedicated to Eva Peron would only show the positive aspects of her legacy. So the exhibition may not be exactly balanced per se, I was, however, able to gain an additional appreciation of what seems like a very inspiring and influential woman.
3. Eva Peron's final resting place
As part of the exhibition, I learned that her body was originally buried in Milan, Italy. After Juan Peron left Argentina for Spain, he had her remains removed from Italy and brought to Madrid. It was only after his death that she was finally returned to Argentina where she resides in a masoleum in Buenos Aires. The exhibition showed many photos (some very macabre) of her body mutilated by different persons during each move. It seems a shame that people would find the need to harm and disfigure a body-deceased or not-out of protest to her and her legacy.
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
BUENOS AIRES: DAYS 1-3
B.A. THURSDAY
I am located in ´microcentro´of B.A. Buenos Aires, as from the flight into the airport and the transfer into the city, seems much more flat than either Sao Paulo or Rio. The city is spread along the Rio de la Plata which seems more like a bay-estuary off of the Atlantic Ocean. Across the Rio de la Plata is Montevideo, Uraguay.
Laid out in a orthagonal grid, the main thoroughfare of the city centre is the Avenida 9 de Julio. There are 2 major avenues perpendicular to this avenue--they are Avenida de Mayo and the Avenida Corrientes. The Casa Rosada (the ´pink house´ think Evita) and the Palacio del Congreso are at the ends of the Avenida de Mayo. In front of the Casa Rosada is the Plaza de Mayo where protests are held every day in this open space now dedicated solely for this purpose. Protests began (or so I was told) when the national government murdered some of its own citizens. The mothers of the fallen took to this Plaza and placed hoods over thier heads and marched silently...the space has been used for this purpose ever since. Opposite the Casa Rosada is the original government building when the city was settled and is open as a museum today. Congress now resides in the Palacio del Congreso.
There are two diagonals from this Plaza-the major diagonal connects the plaza-Casa Rosada with Avenida 9 de Julio. The significance of the Avenida 9 de Julio is this date marks the Argentinian independence from Spain (1816). At 12 lanes in width, it takes some patience to get from one side to the other...these mega avenues I am finding are fairly common in B.A. At the junction of this, the diagonal, and the Corrientes Ave. is the Obelisco. The Obelisco signifies three of the city´s key historical events: the foundation of B.A., the declaration of the city as the capital, and to mark the location where the first Argentinian flag was flown.
Ok..enough history.
I have basically spent these three days visiting major city districts in which to orient myself. Unfortunately, some of the sights I am wanting to see are closed, and one happen to be open but the lady looked at me and said ´mañana´...I guess she didn´t have time for the gringo. bi-atch!
The upscale part of the city is called Palermo and it is here that the embassies, major parks, and other cultural institutions are. I was able to see some great galleries and one museum in particular, MALBA (Museu de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires) had a great temporary exhibition on Mexican Art. (I am also learning the inuendos of South America´s thoughts of Central American--specifically Mexico..not good) The permanant collection is worthwhile, too.
The building is nice, but not noteworthy. I was impressed to find out that this building and museum are privately funded-hence the more than normal entrance fee, but still a bargain. After seeing the two collections, I was able to find some of the building´s exterior terraces where I could finally enjoy some warmer temperatures and some brief sun...It was a nice visit and if you find yourself in B.A., you should see this collection.
I am located in ´microcentro´of B.A. Buenos Aires, as from the flight into the airport and the transfer into the city, seems much more flat than either Sao Paulo or Rio. The city is spread along the Rio de la Plata which seems more like a bay-estuary off of the Atlantic Ocean. Across the Rio de la Plata is Montevideo, Uraguay.
Laid out in a orthagonal grid, the main thoroughfare of the city centre is the Avenida 9 de Julio. There are 2 major avenues perpendicular to this avenue--they are Avenida de Mayo and the Avenida Corrientes. The Casa Rosada (the ´pink house´ think Evita) and the Palacio del Congreso are at the ends of the Avenida de Mayo. In front of the Casa Rosada is the Plaza de Mayo where protests are held every day in this open space now dedicated solely for this purpose. Protests began (or so I was told) when the national government murdered some of its own citizens. The mothers of the fallen took to this Plaza and placed hoods over thier heads and marched silently...the space has been used for this purpose ever since. Opposite the Casa Rosada is the original government building when the city was settled and is open as a museum today. Congress now resides in the Palacio del Congreso.
There are two diagonals from this Plaza-the major diagonal connects the plaza-Casa Rosada with Avenida 9 de Julio. The significance of the Avenida 9 de Julio is this date marks the Argentinian independence from Spain (1816). At 12 lanes in width, it takes some patience to get from one side to the other...these mega avenues I am finding are fairly common in B.A. At the junction of this, the diagonal, and the Corrientes Ave. is the Obelisco. The Obelisco signifies three of the city´s key historical events: the foundation of B.A., the declaration of the city as the capital, and to mark the location where the first Argentinian flag was flown.
Ok..enough history.
I have basically spent these three days visiting major city districts in which to orient myself. Unfortunately, some of the sights I am wanting to see are closed, and one happen to be open but the lady looked at me and said ´mañana´...I guess she didn´t have time for the gringo. bi-atch!
The upscale part of the city is called Palermo and it is here that the embassies, major parks, and other cultural institutions are. I was able to see some great galleries and one museum in particular, MALBA (Museu de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires) had a great temporary exhibition on Mexican Art. (I am also learning the inuendos of South America´s thoughts of Central American--specifically Mexico..not good) The permanant collection is worthwhile, too.
The building is nice, but not noteworthy. I was impressed to find out that this building and museum are privately funded-hence the more than normal entrance fee, but still a bargain. After seeing the two collections, I was able to find some of the building´s exterior terraces where I could finally enjoy some warmer temperatures and some brief sun...It was a nice visit and if you find yourself in B.A., you should see this collection.
RIO DE JANEIRO - TRAVEL TO BUENOS AIRES
LAST DAY: RIO DE JANEIRO
I had to take one last jog along the copacabana beach...the view is too amazing to miss.
I revisited Ipanema--this time by bike. I took a leap of faith and got on the roads with the crazy busses and other drivers. My ´bike´ as the saleslady promised was anything but...
The right pedal was near to falling off and would have had I not kept pushing it back onto its peg while navigating one way traffic and the ocassional side walk. However, I finally was able to locate an access point to the bike trail at the lagoa and for 8km I was hope free and able to enjoy some spectacular views. The botanical gardens in Rio are supposed to be famous and while taking an excursion off of the path, not only did I find the gardens, but also found out that today, they are closed. My guidebook says "open all year except Christmas" and some other holiday...I guess I chose the other holiday to attempt to visit. Next time.
Wednesday is my travel day to Buenos Aires. I have to admit that I was fortunate to arrive in Rio at the national airport instead of the international airport...Rio looses much of its splendor about 1 km north of the centro area and the int. airport was a good thirty minutes beyond that. Not so pretty and I would have hated for that to be my first view of the city. The national airport is directly across a major artery of the city and the views of the surrounding city and landscape are amazing.
No problems getting settled into B.A. The flight was longer than I had expected--3.5 hours. I went from mild, sunny, but increasingly hazier days in Rio, to a much cooler and foggier Buenos Aires. It took 4 days in B.A. before I saw the sun.
The first night was spent exploring the neighborhood around the hotel. Fortunately, I am in tourist central--the equivalent of times square--so I have my McDonalds, Burger Kings, and other delights to remind me of home and of globalization.
I chose to pass on these options and found a nice little café to watch the porteños (persons from B.A.) pass by. As additional part of my location´s charms, I did get to see a pretty amazing tango performance in the street.
(I am having a difficult time locating a computer that will allow me to upload photos...I will share all of these as soon as I can.)
I had to take one last jog along the copacabana beach...the view is too amazing to miss.
I revisited Ipanema--this time by bike. I took a leap of faith and got on the roads with the crazy busses and other drivers. My ´bike´ as the saleslady promised was anything but...
The right pedal was near to falling off and would have had I not kept pushing it back onto its peg while navigating one way traffic and the ocassional side walk. However, I finally was able to locate an access point to the bike trail at the lagoa and for 8km I was hope free and able to enjoy some spectacular views. The botanical gardens in Rio are supposed to be famous and while taking an excursion off of the path, not only did I find the gardens, but also found out that today, they are closed. My guidebook says "open all year except Christmas" and some other holiday...I guess I chose the other holiday to attempt to visit. Next time.
Wednesday is my travel day to Buenos Aires. I have to admit that I was fortunate to arrive in Rio at the national airport instead of the international airport...Rio looses much of its splendor about 1 km north of the centro area and the int. airport was a good thirty minutes beyond that. Not so pretty and I would have hated for that to be my first view of the city. The national airport is directly across a major artery of the city and the views of the surrounding city and landscape are amazing.
No problems getting settled into B.A. The flight was longer than I had expected--3.5 hours. I went from mild, sunny, but increasingly hazier days in Rio, to a much cooler and foggier Buenos Aires. It took 4 days in B.A. before I saw the sun.
The first night was spent exploring the neighborhood around the hotel. Fortunately, I am in tourist central--the equivalent of times square--so I have my McDonalds, Burger Kings, and other delights to remind me of home and of globalization.
I chose to pass on these options and found a nice little café to watch the porteños (persons from B.A.) pass by. As additional part of my location´s charms, I did get to see a pretty amazing tango performance in the street.
(I am having a difficult time locating a computer that will allow me to upload photos...I will share all of these as soon as I can.)
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
R.G. DAY 5,6
RIO DE JANEIRO:
SUNDAY:
Today, I take the ferry from Rio across the bay to Niteroi...the equivalent of Oakland to San Fran.
Here, is another Niemeyer museum, the Museu de Arte Contemporanea located on a point in which Rio and the Sugar Loaf become the backdrop for the fluid concrete construction. Resting on a small base, the museum is basically a huge cantilever peering out over the bay. The galleries are small, but I think what people come to see are the view and this building speaking to the sugar loaf in the distance.
Tonight, I had dinner and drinks with some Columbians (Bogata) that have befriended me...one is a chef, so I have someone who can choose what to eat here at a nice spot in Ipanema. We tried to find a place that I would have assumed to be bliss...what is translated to the school of cachaça (yum), but it is not in the neighborhood or close by...so no go.
MONDAY:
I do what I give other persons a hard time for...I joined a tour to see the Corcovado and the Cristo Redemer. Since you have to pass through many favellas to get to the summit, I thought it would be safer and cheaper than taking a taxi to the park. Also, we make other stops in the city that I have yet to see, so this is a go.
What should be the most prominent point in all of Rio is unfortunately a viewing platform in the clouds. Every day has been clear, except today. Although what glimpses I get of the city below, the experience to see the Cristo up close is spectacular.
more later..
http://picasaweb.google.com/christopher.kitterman/RIODEJANEIRODAYS456
SUNDAY:
Today, I take the ferry from Rio across the bay to Niteroi...the equivalent of Oakland to San Fran.
Here, is another Niemeyer museum, the Museu de Arte Contemporanea located on a point in which Rio and the Sugar Loaf become the backdrop for the fluid concrete construction. Resting on a small base, the museum is basically a huge cantilever peering out over the bay. The galleries are small, but I think what people come to see are the view and this building speaking to the sugar loaf in the distance.
Tonight, I had dinner and drinks with some Columbians (Bogata) that have befriended me...one is a chef, so I have someone who can choose what to eat here at a nice spot in Ipanema. We tried to find a place that I would have assumed to be bliss...what is translated to the school of cachaça (yum), but it is not in the neighborhood or close by...so no go.
MONDAY:
I do what I give other persons a hard time for...I joined a tour to see the Corcovado and the Cristo Redemer. Since you have to pass through many favellas to get to the summit, I thought it would be safer and cheaper than taking a taxi to the park. Also, we make other stops in the city that I have yet to see, so this is a go.
What should be the most prominent point in all of Rio is unfortunately a viewing platform in the clouds. Every day has been clear, except today. Although what glimpses I get of the city below, the experience to see the Cristo up close is spectacular.
more later..
http://picasaweb.google.com/christopher.kitterman/RIODEJANEIRODAYS456
R.G. DAYS 3,4
RIO DE JANEIRO:
I am not sure where I have left off...but I'll start with Friday.
Friday was a long walk through Copacabana and Ipanema...Copacabana is known as the tourist sector of the city and hence people are always coming up to me wanting to sell whatever they have in their hands at the moment...mostly shirts and baseball caps, but I have seen jewelry, cigarettes, and the occasional underwear. nothing too exciting.
However, Ipanema, is one of the more upscale neighborhoods of the city and therefore has less street pedalers. The best bars and restaurants are located here in addition to the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas...an interior lake under the arms of the Cristo Rendentor. There is an 8km trail around the lake for jogging and cycling and the city's row team is housed here. I have been told to visit a few bars/restaurants in this zone, so tonight I shall check them out.
SATURDAY:
Today, after a nice run along Copacaban, I traveled to centro via the metro. Like Sao Paulo, it is easy to navigate and very clean. At the cinelandia metro stop, I visited a square in which the Biblioteca Nacional, Teatro Minicipal, and the Museu Nacional de Belas Artes surround. Each is classical in style...The national library was not officially open to the public, but I was allowed to visit the lobby and the stair atrium...There was what appeared to be a middle school graduation ceremony that I crashed and I am sure all of the parents were thinking, 'who is that guy related to?!' But, it was a cute ceremony.
The Belas Artes has a vast collection of Brazilian painting and sculpture. The collection bascially followed the trajectory of the history of art, so you could trace the Brazilian perspective of the differnt art movements. Also, I was able to see an exhibition of the landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx which was spectacular. There were models, sketches, and final drawings for different projects across the nation. I also learned he was a sculpture, too.
Unfortunately, the Teatro National was closed for renovations, but I was told it was modeled (almost literally) to the Paris Opera by Garnier.
The last stop of the day was a visit to the Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM) designed in 1952 by Lucio Costa and Eduardo Reidy. It is a concrete bar building set with a theater (that I only later learned...more on that experience) in a expansive Burle Marx landscape/park. The exhibits included a Brazilian photographer (whose name I have forgotten) and a spectacular painter (whose name I have just not on me).
Tonight, I have found a broadway show (whose name I shall not mention, but is closed on broadway) to see. Although I have no idea where the theater is, I take a cab to make the 7.30 start time. I arrived surprised by the fact that I am back at the MAM and I am thinking this is a mistake, but I do not know how to tell the driver this. He drops me off at a ticket kiosk...there is no sign or indication that the show I am supposed to see is actually playing, so I get nervous...
I am indeed at the correct venue...fortunately, and after getting my ticket, I am told the show is here and what I have just now learned is the theater adjoing the museum just recently visited. However, I am the only person outside and there is no activity in the building. Did I get the days wrong? I look again at the ticket and see 21.30. Quick (and simple) math indicates this to be 9.30 and not 7.30! So I am two hours early and from my walking today, I remember a. there are no places in the immediate area to grab a drink or dinner and b. I was told this is not the place to be alone after dark. Not wanting to drop another round trip fare via taxi, I get back to the metro and return to my area for a quick snack and drink before making my way back to the show.
This is not the typical broadway experience I have grown accustomed to...not that this is a problem, but for starters, I arrive and am handed what I thought were sanitary towels to clean my hands with...a nice gesture. But upon closer inspection before I opened the package, I realized it was Palmolive dishwashing detergent samples! I look around and see Palmolive soap, advertisements, and signage everywhere! Having no need for dishwashing detergent, I returned so some other Carioca (a person from Rio) can enjoy.
As I make my way to my seat, I locate the orchestra section and step into the theater. There are no seats or I should say not your typical stadium style seats, but a flat and what feels like a scaled up version of my elementary school cafeteria complete with hundreds of tables for four and a raised platform that is the stage! I didn't realize this was a 'dinner theater' experience or I would have forgone the snack earlier! I find my table and I am seat 'c'...which is not marked any where. I assume the couple I am setting with are a and b, so I take a seat, but the stage is to my back. To make a long story short, seat d is the largest Brazilian I have seen on my trip and table 516 and 518 on either side of us are so tightly packed that the seats between tables touch each other when occupied. I can clearly see that 'd' is agitated that 'c' (me) is also tall and broad shouldered. He makes a scene and proceeds to set in the aisle, now in front of seat 'a' at my table. She gets pissed and sends him away. At this time, a loud buzzer sounds and we are to take our seats. After 'd' is asked to move three times, he finds a spot; I turn my seat towards the stage, and we enjoy the show.
I am not sure where I have left off...but I'll start with Friday.
Friday was a long walk through Copacabana and Ipanema...Copacabana is known as the tourist sector of the city and hence people are always coming up to me wanting to sell whatever they have in their hands at the moment...mostly shirts and baseball caps, but I have seen jewelry, cigarettes, and the occasional underwear. nothing too exciting.
However, Ipanema, is one of the more upscale neighborhoods of the city and therefore has less street pedalers. The best bars and restaurants are located here in addition to the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas...an interior lake under the arms of the Cristo Rendentor. There is an 8km trail around the lake for jogging and cycling and the city's row team is housed here. I have been told to visit a few bars/restaurants in this zone, so tonight I shall check them out.
SATURDAY:
Today, after a nice run along Copacaban, I traveled to centro via the metro. Like Sao Paulo, it is easy to navigate and very clean. At the cinelandia metro stop, I visited a square in which the Biblioteca Nacional, Teatro Minicipal, and the Museu Nacional de Belas Artes surround. Each is classical in style...The national library was not officially open to the public, but I was allowed to visit the lobby and the stair atrium...There was what appeared to be a middle school graduation ceremony that I crashed and I am sure all of the parents were thinking, 'who is that guy related to?!' But, it was a cute ceremony.
The Belas Artes has a vast collection of Brazilian painting and sculpture. The collection bascially followed the trajectory of the history of art, so you could trace the Brazilian perspective of the differnt art movements. Also, I was able to see an exhibition of the landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx which was spectacular. There were models, sketches, and final drawings for different projects across the nation. I also learned he was a sculpture, too.
Unfortunately, the Teatro National was closed for renovations, but I was told it was modeled (almost literally) to the Paris Opera by Garnier.
The last stop of the day was a visit to the Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM) designed in 1952 by Lucio Costa and Eduardo Reidy. It is a concrete bar building set with a theater (that I only later learned...more on that experience) in a expansive Burle Marx landscape/park. The exhibits included a Brazilian photographer (whose name I have forgotten) and a spectacular painter (whose name I have just not on me).
Tonight, I have found a broadway show (whose name I shall not mention, but is closed on broadway) to see. Although I have no idea where the theater is, I take a cab to make the 7.30 start time. I arrived surprised by the fact that I am back at the MAM and I am thinking this is a mistake, but I do not know how to tell the driver this. He drops me off at a ticket kiosk...there is no sign or indication that the show I am supposed to see is actually playing, so I get nervous...
I am indeed at the correct venue...fortunately, and after getting my ticket, I am told the show is here and what I have just now learned is the theater adjoing the museum just recently visited. However, I am the only person outside and there is no activity in the building. Did I get the days wrong? I look again at the ticket and see 21.30. Quick (and simple) math indicates this to be 9.30 and not 7.30! So I am two hours early and from my walking today, I remember a. there are no places in the immediate area to grab a drink or dinner and b. I was told this is not the place to be alone after dark. Not wanting to drop another round trip fare via taxi, I get back to the metro and return to my area for a quick snack and drink before making my way back to the show.
This is not the typical broadway experience I have grown accustomed to...not that this is a problem, but for starters, I arrive and am handed what I thought were sanitary towels to clean my hands with...a nice gesture. But upon closer inspection before I opened the package, I realized it was Palmolive dishwashing detergent samples! I look around and see Palmolive soap, advertisements, and signage everywhere! Having no need for dishwashing detergent, I returned so some other Carioca (a person from Rio) can enjoy.
As I make my way to my seat, I locate the orchestra section and step into the theater. There are no seats or I should say not your typical stadium style seats, but a flat and what feels like a scaled up version of my elementary school cafeteria complete with hundreds of tables for four and a raised platform that is the stage! I didn't realize this was a 'dinner theater' experience or I would have forgone the snack earlier! I find my table and I am seat 'c'...which is not marked any where. I assume the couple I am setting with are a and b, so I take a seat, but the stage is to my back. To make a long story short, seat d is the largest Brazilian I have seen on my trip and table 516 and 518 on either side of us are so tightly packed that the seats between tables touch each other when occupied. I can clearly see that 'd' is agitated that 'c' (me) is also tall and broad shouldered. He makes a scene and proceeds to set in the aisle, now in front of seat 'a' at my table. She gets pissed and sends him away. At this time, a loud buzzer sounds and we are to take our seats. After 'd' is asked to move three times, he finds a spot; I turn my seat towards the stage, and we enjoy the show.
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